install ctek mx 5.0 battery charger cable plug to 2017 Gen2 BMW S1000R

 I already own the CTEK MX5 charger to look after a large static caravan battery over the winter months

Included with the charger is 2 sets of adapter cables with detachable plug.
 1x crocodile clips, and 1 x M6 eyelet

Unbeknowns to me this is a perfect fit onto the S1000r motorcycle battery.

only downside I can see is that the eyelet to plug (indeed the entire cable to the charger) has no inline fuse.

to fit
remove the seat and pillion
remove the battery terminals (1 at a time) and attach the eyelets.

I chose to route the cable up into the pillion area, so i can attach the charger easily just by using the key

under main seat with the terminals attached

charging cable attached (shows location of the plug in the pillion area

close up on the terminals

charger on and selected for 'motorcycle' and 'agm' modes

install GB racing frame sliders to 2017 Gen2 BMW S1000R

 

Ideally you will need

torque wrench to set the appropriate torque for the engine bolts (50Nm ?)

extended torx bits (even these ones are only just long enough to reach into the recess), i bought the ones below which seemed a reasonable kit for the money and included 2 drive size adapters as well.

https://www.toolstation.com/draper-tx-star-hexagon-and-spline-mechanics-bit-set/p66212

Contents: 10mm bit holder hexagon x 3/8" sq. drive, 10mm bit holder hexagon x 1/2" sq. drive, 7 x 30mm and 7 x 75mm Draper TX-STAR bits (T20, T25, T30, T40, T45, T50 and T55), 5 x 30mm and 5 x 75mm spline bits (5, 6, 8, 10 and 12mm), 7 x 30mm and 7 x 75mm hexagonal bits (4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 10 and 12).

GB Racing frame sliders, for my model S1000r (2018 Gen 2) there is no removal of any body panels, nor any drilling required

Not a fan of the R&G teardrop look
Evotech nice , but expensive and needs covers taken off

LHS and RHS , which refer to as if you are sitting on the bike

easy to fit, biggest issue was making sure the alloy piece slots face correctly on tightening the bolt.
to achieve this , youll need to keep the alloy piece from rotating , i used a pair of mole grips, just make sure you place something in the jaws so you dont damage the alloy inserts!

small , visually blend into the body and should help (if i drop the bike at low speed)

[DRAFT] mid life crisis : getting back on a motorbike, BMW S1000r Sport 2018 9k miles

[DRAFT] new front tyres Tiguan approx 36000 miles

[DRAFT] MOT / brake fluid / new front tyres / Aircon regas

Golf GTI Edition 35 : front brake upgrade PP Mk7

 

Been searching ebay for weeks.
I was either buying second hand or brand new from Germany (link) but we now have import tax given Brexit

Heres the actual pictures from the ebay advert on the donor car.

Primarily bought for the carriers and calipers.

Im not a fan of EBC brake pads but as long as they work, I will use the discs and pads and look to replace them at a later date with Ferodo DS2500 and some drilled or j hooked discs

how they arrived, needing a good clean (old mk7 hoses still attached)

given a little clean 

clean up the 340mm discs (from the donor car), these are mk7.5 discs

old 312mm setup ready to be replaced.
At 50k miles pads only 50% worn!

312mm calipers VS 340mm PP caliper

in the middle of fitting.

NOTE 

I kept my original dust shields

I used my original hub bolts (mk7 ones are too long)

I reused my original rubber brake lines.

I kept the oe caliper attached to the brake line until the last possible moment.

Both sides BEFORE

Both sides AFTER

Final costs and opinion