Wednesday, 14 April 2021

VW Golf GTI Edition 35 Mk6 : RCD 510 : Reverse Camera (RVC : 5K0 980 551) Blue screen DIY fix instructions

 So recently I engaged Reverse on the DSG to to be presented with this

Taking to the interwebs a quick search revealed many possible causes but the most likely to be the wires to the RVC unit in the boot badge get stretched and commonly break.

My car is 2012 so 9 years old and nearly 50k miles

So i used this guide to help remove the rear hatch cover

its pretty brute force, just take your time and be patient.

Once its off for the first time its easy to see the fixings and how it attaches

You are presented with this

of which you need to remove 4 screws , 3 visible and 1 thats in that upper left square hole.

This helps too :

This allows you to remove the entire boot release motor and camera unit as one so you can work on it on the bench.

You need to unclip the motor , and 2 sets of camera wires (top rhs of the photo)

WARNING : At this point if you shut the boot , you can only open it from inside via the back seats through them pushed forward.

Just slide the white clip you can see on the boot latch to the left and the boot releases..

out of the car its clear to see the issue, 2 wires have snapped clean where the waterproof connector ends.

This is apparently very common

At this point you are either going to

  1. attempt a DIY fix of the cable
  2. buy a new camera unit complete

Looking at Option 2 first, its price prohibitive to just order a new camera 

My part number was 5K0 980 551

To order new genuine looked like around £250 minimum and im not convinced of stock levels, not sure how much a genuine from VW actually is.

You can get what seems a reasonable part from AliExpress. (around £50 to 70  The caution here is how long it will take to arrive and you must check the type of camera and connector you have , the listings are very confusing)

Of the 8 wires

  • 5 are for the camera cable (4 pins + outer)
  • 3 are seperate

for reference the connector I have was this

Given the challenge of getting a replacement camera , and having a look at the existing guides online, I thought there was nothing to loose by attempting a repair.

So lets take the motor apart from the mechanism/camera. Its only two torx screws

then we can split the mechanism from the camera.  Single internal screw, this allows you to seperate the two halves of the mechanism.

Note : there are 2 plastic end washers (white in colour) dont loose them.

Having split the mechanism, you now want to wiggle out the internal 'flap' that contains the camera.

One of the pins slots out to help.

Once slotted out , you can remove the final 2 small screws holding the camera to the internal flap, and feed the cables through it.

Laid out it now looks like this...

Now you have just the camera to work on, much easier.

It looks as if the cables are directly sealed to the camera body, but thats an illusion. If you carefully cut (i used snipe nosed cutters) away the inch long rubber seal , it eventually comes away to reveal all the wires and a plug.

WARNING : The plug works in both orientations so make sure you know which way round it went before unplugging it.

You can then look to splice your connections back together in whatever way you see fit.

As you can see above I chose to buy the items below as I didnt have either prior to this repair

  1. heatgun  £30
  2. solder fixings (as you can see in the pic above) £14 (although you only need the smallest white ones)

 At this point because you have available connections at either end I tested continuity using a multimeter, this allows you to prove that your connection repairs have been successfull.

Hold one end onto the exposed side of the cable block, then one end onto the plug that joins to the car.

Its also worth doing to prove no other wires have been damaged or broken but arent visible.

Once all checked I also went another step to prove it works in the car.

Go back to the car, open the boot (which at this point you now need to do from the back seats (as you unplugged the hatch release during disassembly)

Just plug the 2 camera connector back in and hook it over something 


turn on the ignition and select R , at this point if youve fixed the wires you should now have a camera image.

Having proved its successful you can now unplug it again and start the sealing and re-assembly.

i wrapped the wires with some black insulation tape.

I have also loosened the wires in the central 'bracket' to give the camera end more flex

then attempted to mimic the orginal covering using Sugru £6 , its a moldable semi flexible plastic.

I took 1 piece and moulded it round the cable as per original , using a wet finger to get a smooth effect.

Then I started to immediately re-assemble the flap (2 screws)

and simulating what the motor does you can see how the camera moves within it

then assemble flap back into the mechanism

then attach mechanism back to motor, to give you an assembly that can go back in the car now ...

place it back in the car AND RETEST IT AGAIN

now you can put the boot back panel on , i sprayed GT85 lubricant on the metal clips to aid refitting.

be patient and take your time, it does go back I promise.

Grab a cup of tea/coffee/rum and celebrate a job well done.

Not sure how long it will last but even if it all goes wrong you still have Option 2 to buy from China.

guides that helped me

Saturday, 6 February 2021

VW Golf GTI Mk6 Edition 35 : 2021 service : Oil and Air Filters : 4000 miles completed


Service reminder popped up today during UK lockdown part 2 February 2021.

Last service was also done by me , see 

Service 2020

For these smaller jobs Ive now been servicing the GTI myself, as I plan to keep the car.  I have a trusted local garage for the jobs I dont want to tackle.

DSG and cam follower done by RTech at 38k , and given I have a standard fuel pump (not upgraded) dont feel the need to change this time around.

So lets just do Oil and Air

Bought a service kit from Fergusons of Stirling. You can buy direct or via ebay.

At the moment I only wanted to change the air and oil filters inc a sump plug.

They do all the service items so have a look around. 

Im happy with the cheaper 5w40 Millers oil as it get changed pretty frequently.

Fergusons Of Stirling CDLG

After that its fire up VCDS (I have an older micro can cable that works with mk6 cars) and reset SRI.

So the mileage between services over 1 year was

Last service 45500
This one      49546

So 4000 miles only this year given we've been in lockdowns in the UK for much of it!

Updated the service schedule.
Car now also given a wash and ready for another years running.


VW Tiguan Mk2 150PD 4Motion : removing the panaromic sunroof vent tube spider traps

 Its a pretty common complaint on VW forums to get water into the footwells of your tiguan.

There can be many reasons but a common cause is that the sunroof drains are blocked and not draining.

VW fitted 'spider traps' small red 5p sized flaps that sit on the end of the tubes, they tend to just collect debri and end up blocking the tube!

So its advised to remove them.

There are 4

2 front tubes that end in the corner of the front scuttle panels , just lift the plastic and push your arm into the corner, they easily pull off (WARNING : only feel and removal the flap , nothing else and be gentle, last thing you want to do is yank it and detach the whole tube)

2 in the rear.

Today and did the front 2, will do the rears soon (given we have a diesel its a little bit harder on one side as the adblue tank gets in the way)

Heres the vw pages for location.

Sunday, 15 November 2020

Golf GTI Edition 35 : Boost guage vent holder with correct angle to driver

 when i first fitted this the only sensible cost option had a flat profile so didnt quite point the 52mm towards the driver, it was still readable but not ideal.

fast forward to today and now theres an angled version. yay!

before/after and direct comparison (top one is new, bottom flat)

£25 from ebay from rhyat guage pods

Tuesday, 1 September 2020

Goodbye A180 , hello VW Tiguan 150 DSG 4Motion RLine

with a caravan planned in our future and the lease ending on my wifes Mercedes A180 we moved onto a Tiguan

66 plate Jan 2017 registered, has 24,000 miles

So picked it up a couple of weeks ago.

First jobs have been

  • clean the leather on steering wheel and dsg lever, mileage is checked as genuine but way too shiny.
  • replacement 3d gel number plates
  • air filter
  • charcoal pollen filter and air com freshner
  • touch up stick
  • mobile phone vent holder and charging cable
  • register for erwin an buy 1 hrs time to download cars full specification sheet
  • had the wheels off today to paint the rusty disc bells, touch up the rear backing plates (already rusting) and clean behind wheels and apply wheel wax

loving it so far, next up are

  • paint calipers, colour tbc
  • TowTrust towbar inc specifice harness + coding
  • potential remap once Ive researched who to pick
  • retrofit rear camera
  • wheel spacers
  • VCDS tweaks after I get a new VCDS cable , i only have the old hex-can which doesnt support the Tiguan

So far pretty impressed by the 150 TD drives great even on 20 inch wheels

Wednesday, 12 August 2020

Golf gti edition 35 mot , 48232 miles (8k miles this year) and new rear tyres

 48232 so 8000 miles this year compared to 18k last year. 

One rear tyre badly cracked and really bad sawtooth/20p piece profile pattern.  

Both Dunlop sportmax and I think they are the original tyres from new. So now changed to match the Michelin pilot sport 4 on the front. 

Rear noise now gone and it wasn't the bearings!

Car now silent and i have 4 matching brand high quality tyres